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  • Sizing plywood truss gussets and fastening schedule - GreenBuildingAdvisor
    Having designed a truss, now trying to figure out how big the plywood gussets need to be and what kind of fastening schedule is required Loads indicate the bottom chord will be in tension with a force of around 300 pounds, the top chords will be in compression at around 311 pounds or so
  • Fastening plywood gussets - GreenBuildingAdvisor
    Hi, I will be fastening plywood gussets to my 2 by 6 rafters to deepen the bays for additional insulation in my attic The plywood is 3 4 inch thick Gussets will be 11 inches long, mounted onto 4 5 inches of the long side of the rafter and allowing me to deepen the rafter by a further 6 5 inches I have 3 questions 1 How to fasten the gussets? Naively was thinking of 2 inch long screws
  • Double stud wall interior vapor barrier with Gussets
    So with gussets and double stud walls, what have you seen in regards to a vapor barrier? My first floor is on a slab with frost walls I am thinking with 2x4 walls that gussets would be a good idea My current house is 2x6 exterior and 2x6 interior with blocking for interior wall only and a VB between drywall and interior wall That was 12
  • Bringing gussets down to line up with knee all in attic . . .
    The solution developed here is to sister plywood gussets to the existing rafters and then attach 2x3s to the gussets Depending on the rafter, I’m cutting the plywood 6-8 inches wide and two feet long, and attaching to the rafters with #8 2 inch construction screws I’ll then screw the 2x3s to the gussets to get an even surface for the drywall
  • Furring out rafters - GreenBuildingAdvisor
    Is this plan reasonable or would using plywood gussets be an easier way of furring out the rafters? The foam strip is primarily a thermal break and to get the extra 25″ needed for my batt install Any creative ideas or other methods anyone ever use? My roof is a very simple gable with a 5 12 pitch Raul
  • Five Cathedral Ceilings That Work - GreenBuildingAdvisor
    A vented assembly with fiberglass or mineral wool insulation This is the traditional way to insulate a cathedral ceiling Note, however, that this approach requires deep rafters or scabbed-on 2x4s to add depth The illustration shows an assembly with R-38 insulation, which is enough insulation for Climate Zones 1, 2, or 3 If you live in a colder climate zone, you'll probably need insulation
  • Making rafter bays deeper for vaulted ceiling insulation . . .
    After that you can add 2"x4"s on edge and attach them with plywood gussets every 2 ft Still want more depth - leave a space between the bottom of the rafters and the 2:"x4"
  • Ridge beam collapsed - GreenBuildingAdvisor
    What is your opinion? Should I build the ridge board with laminated 2x6s to make 4×6 or should I do 2×8? Would I benefit from the horizontal support beam? I also am wondering if I should instead use plywood gussets, and if so what size would work? I want to avoid having the thing come down on me again Thanks to all!
  • Efficiently and cost-effectively insulating an old attic with 2x6 . . .
    You can increase the depth of the rafter cavities to include any size of ventilation channel and amount of batt insulation you choose by using longer gussets This a pretty DIY friendly method that leaves you with a well insulated, ventilated, foam-free, conditioned attic
  • All About Larsen Trusses - GreenBuildingAdvisor
    A Larsen truss is a type of wall truss used to build a thick wall — thick enough to provide room for above-average amounts of insulation It was developed in 1981 by John Larsen, a builder in Edmonton, Alberta In honor of the 30th anniversary of the Larsen truss, the time has come for a definitive article on the invention This report includes an interview with the inventor of the Larsen





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